HDF
Floor is Layer in a floating floor configuration! |
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Make sure the floor
which is to be overlaid is clean. Unroll and lay the underlay to cover
the whole area. Commence laying the first row of boards on top of
the existing floor with their grooved edges facing the wall. At this
stage fit the short end joints together without gluing and place spacers
as required between the wall and the boards leaving an expansion gap
of between 8-10mm. |
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Place the last
floorboard in the row "tongue to tongue" with the last one laid-and
mark a cutting line. Saw. (Make sure to saw with the face side uppermost
to avoid breaking the edges.) Turn the board around so that the sawn
edge is facing the wall. Remember that there should never be less
than 200mm Between the staggered joints in the row. Fit the first
row of planks from left to right before gluing, use the spacers along
the wall to maintain the necessary expansion space. |
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The entire groove
must be filed with a continuous bead of glue. Apply glue to both the
long and shot sides of the panel. Do not apply glue to the groove
of a board when it is up against a wall or any other fixed objects
such as pipes. |
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When staring the
second row, begin by using any off cut piece of board left over from
the first row. Glue the tongue profile along the length of the board.
Ease the short ends into place. Tap the long sides of the boards carefully
into place using a tapping block. Allow the first three row to dry
for a minimum of one hour and the straighten them by removing or adding
spacers between the edge of the panels and the wall. |
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Last board : place
the last board to be laid exactly over the board in the next to last
row with the grooves facing towards you. Take another board and place
it on top of these two, with the tongue side against the wall. Draw
a line on line on the middle board, using the grooved edge of the
uppermost board as a marker. Saw along this line. The part of the
sawn board with the groove fits in as the last board against the wall.
When the last board has been laid, pull the joints between the boards
tightly together. With the spacers in place allow the glue to dry
for a minimum of 24 hour. Then remove the spacers and glue the molding
into place to cover the expansion gap between the wall and floor. |
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Glue and fit the
last row. Use the pry bar and hammer to position the planks together.
Protect the wall with a piece of scarp. Remember to use the spacers
to maintain the expansion space. |
Installing
around pipes & other objects |
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Determine
the point where the pipe will penetrate the board by placing the board
adjacent to the point of installation. Determine the distance between
the center of the pipes and the edge of the board, and mark these
positions on the board. |
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Center
measure the pipe and add ? " (12.7mm) to the diameter. Drill a hole
at this point. Cut the board across the width at the center point
of the hole or holes. On the holes. On the short side, saw straight
across. On the long side, saw at a 45c. angle. |
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Glue
and lay the main board. Then glue on the short piece of board and
install it between the spacer and the end of the board, using the
pry bar if necessary. |
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The
removal of wooden door casements is not required to cut and fit flooring
under the casement. Use a piece of the flooring laid upside down against
the frame to obtain the correct height of the cut. Using a hand saw,
make a horizontal cut on the casement at the top of this piece. The
cutting of the casement will allow the flooring to fit underneath. |